LIKE THE OSCARS, Grammys, Tonys, and Pulitzers, the James Beard Awards give current culinary royalty their much-deserved props, and have a history of star-making. Sure, you already know of Gregory Gourdet’s lauded Haitian restaurant Kann and newly minted Netflix star Sarah Minnick’s farm-obsessed pizza spot Lovely’s Fifty Fifty, both of which are among this year’s 11 Oregon chef and restaurant semifinalists. But other nominees might not yet be in your rotation. Astute gourmands know to scour the long list and snag croissants, bowls of soup, and soon-to-be-impossible reservations before the foodies descend. We recommend checking out these four spots while you can still get in.
Josh Dorcak of MÄS
ASHLAND NOMINATION: REGIONAL AWARD FOR BEST CHEF NORTHWEST
In Ashland, MÄS chef Josh Dorcak bills his highly refined tasting as “Cascadian Cuisine,” referencing a sense of place through food, though the menu sources ingredients from around the world, and a strong Japanese influence looms large over both the cuisine and the spirit of the place; he’s said Tokyo’s intimate sushi counters inspired his vision. Many have deemed it worth the four-hour drive from Portland, if not a flight across the country, as the New York Times implied by including MÄS on its 2022 list of the 50 most exciting restaurants in America. Meals open with a signature, sippable dashi broth slicked with an agrarian, barley-scented clarified butter, and run through a poetic, omnivorous dozen or so courses. The menu changes constantly, but standouts include a lobster and foie gras chawanmushi (a silky, savory Japanese egg custard) and savory-leaning desserts; the current offering pairs maple-y candy cap mushrooms with hojicha, a roasted Japanese green tea. NAMA, Dorcak’s neighboring a la carte counter, serves similarly refined dishes, and is recommended as a good place to hang before your reservation.
