At MÄS, a tiny restaurant that has built a big reputation for its Japanese-influenced menu since opening in a permanent location in 2018, chef Josh Dorcak holds court at a handful of tables and a chef counter. Total seating is for 16.
While sous-chef Devyn Delisle quietly plated intricate dishes, Dorcak maintained a steady soliloquy around the thoughts and sourcing behind the selections, as well as the accompanying wines and sakes. Much of this work, Dorcak said, is about creating connections.
“This is my orchestra,” he said. “It’s my songbook. And it’s my house — I’ve spent most of my 30s here. It should be a personal experience — I’m cooking your food.”
And so on, through nine sublime tasting courses, from lobster to abalone to bluefin tuna to lamb. More than a meal, it is a sensory experience.
